The big battle is this afternoon, I thought I should probably post my army list before Pano kills me. I am still a noob when it comes to actually playing 40k (I have been a fan of the novels for much longer) so Pete actually made this list for me.
HQ
Daemon Prince -110
Wings +20
Troops
Chaos space marines -15 each (5 total) -75
Meltagun +10 Mark of Slaanesh +20
Transport-35
Daemonic possession +20
Chaos space marines -15 each (5 total) -75
Meltagun +10 Mark of Slaanesh +20
Transport-35
Daemonic possession +20
Heavy Support
Vindicator -125
Twin linked bolter +5
Daemonic possession +20
Vindicator -125
Twin linked bolter +5
Daemonic possession +20
Monday, February 22, 2010
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Space Marine List
1x Captain with powersword 115pts
1 10 man tac squad with 1 melta and 1 launcher 175pts
sergeant with chainsword
1 8 man tac squad with melta 143 pts
sergeant with powerweapon
1 dreadnought with assault cannon, missile launcher and extra armor 140
1 dreadnought with extra armor 120
1 rhino with hunter killer 45 pts
1 10 man tac squad with 1 melta and 1 launcher 175pts
sergeant with chainsword
1 8 man tac squad with melta 143 pts
sergeant with powerweapon
1 dreadnought with assault cannon, missile launcher and extra armor 140
1 dreadnought with extra armor 120
1 rhino with hunter killer 45 pts
Friday, February 19, 2010
Updated Tau list
Well, little change to the list as I got a new purchase today, now we have.
Commander
Shas'el 50
AFP 20
Missile Pod 12
Targeting array 10
HW multi tracker 5
Stim injector 10
HW drone controller 0
Bonding knife 5
shield drone 15
total: 127
Elite
3 suit Stealth team 90
fusion blaster 2
3x targeting array 30
total 122
fast attack
4 man pathfinder squad 48
total 48
Pathfinder Devilfish 80
disruption pod 5
total 85
Troops
12 man fire warrior team 120
10 man Kroot squad 70
total 190
Heavy support
Hammerhead Gunship 90
Railgun 50
Burst cannons 10
Disruption pod 5
multi tracker 10
Target lock 10
total 175
Grand total 747
Commander
Shas'el 50
AFP 20
Missile Pod 12
Targeting array 10
HW multi tracker 5
Stim injector 10
HW drone controller 0
Bonding knife 5
shield drone 15
total: 127
Elite
3 suit Stealth team 90
fusion blaster 2
3x targeting array 30
total 122
fast attack
4 man pathfinder squad 48
total 48
Pathfinder Devilfish 80
disruption pod 5
total 85
Troops
12 man fire warrior team 120
10 man Kroot squad 70
total 190
Heavy support
Hammerhead Gunship 90
Railgun 50
Burst cannons 10
Disruption pod 5
multi tracker 10
Target lock 10
total 175
Grand total 747
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Imperial Guard 750 Army List
Joining in on the army list bandwagon, here's mine. I figured I'd want some high AP, seeing as we have both Chaos Space Marines, and normal Space Marines. I'm I bit worried about having such a low model count for IG, but Battle Cannon spam should be fun.
HQ-
Company Command Squad - 50
Grenade Launchers x2 +10
Trasport -
Chimera 55
Heavy Stubber +10
Total: 125
Troops-
Veteran Squad - 70
Autocannon +10
Total: 80
Veteran Squad - 70
Autocannon +10
Total: 80
Fast Attack-
Armored Sentinel - 55
Plasma Cannon + 20
Total: 75
Heavy Support-
Leman Russ - 150
Lascannon +15
Heavy Bolter Sponsons +20
Heavy Stubber +10
Total: 195
Leman Russ - 150
Lascannon +15
Heavy Bolter Sponsons +20
Heavy Stubber +10
Total: 195
Grand Total: 750
HQ-
Company Command Squad - 50
Grenade Launchers x2 +10
Trasport -
Chimera 55
Heavy Stubber +10
Total: 125
Troops-
Veteran Squad - 70
Autocannon +10
Total: 80
Veteran Squad - 70
Autocannon +10
Total: 80
Fast Attack-
Armored Sentinel - 55
Plasma Cannon + 20
Total: 75
Heavy Support-
Leman Russ - 150
Lascannon +15
Heavy Bolter Sponsons +20
Heavy Stubber +10
Total: 195
Leman Russ - 150
Lascannon +15
Heavy Bolter Sponsons +20
Heavy Stubber +10
Total: 195
Grand Total: 750
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Tau list 750 points
We have a game coming up next week and I thought I'd post my list. If there is a unit type missing it is likely cause I don't have it. The only thing subject to change is if I happen to get another devilfish in between then and now.
Commander
Shas'el 50
AFP 20
Plasma Rifle 20
Targeting array 10
HW multi tracker 5
Stim injector 10
HW drone controller 0
Bonding knife 5
shield drone 15
total: 135
Elite
3 suit Stealth team 90
Team leader 5
fusion blaster 2
bonding knife 5
3x targeting array 30
total 132
fast attack
4 man pathfinder squad 48
Shas'ui 10
bonding knife 5
total 63
Pathfinder Devilfish 80
disruption pod 5
seeker missile 10
total 95
Troops
12 man fire warrior team 120
shas'ui 10
bonding knife 5
6 man fire warrior team 60
6 man fire warrior team 60
10 man Kroot squad 70
total 325
Grand total 750 on the dot.
If I manage to get another fish before then I will probably mix up the troop choice a bit, maybe drop the Kroot and combine my 2 small squads into another largish squad to load em up, we'll see how it works out.
Commander
Shas'el 50
AFP 20
Plasma Rifle 20
Targeting array 10
HW multi tracker 5
Stim injector 10
HW drone controller 0
Bonding knife 5
shield drone 15
total: 135
Elite
3 suit Stealth team 90
Team leader 5
fusion blaster 2
bonding knife 5
3x targeting array 30
total 132
fast attack
4 man pathfinder squad 48
Shas'ui 10
bonding knife 5
total 63
Pathfinder Devilfish 80
disruption pod 5
seeker missile 10
total 95
Troops
12 man fire warrior team 120
shas'ui 10
bonding knife 5
6 man fire warrior team 60
6 man fire warrior team 60
10 man Kroot squad 70
total 325
Grand total 750 on the dot.
If I manage to get another fish before then I will probably mix up the troop choice a bit, maybe drop the Kroot and combine my 2 small squads into another largish squad to load em up, we'll see how it works out.
Monday, February 1, 2010
How To Strip Paint.
How to strip paint:
Stripping paint is easier than you think. It’s helpful to know, when you buy used models. Here’s a list of what you’ll need:
• A container you don’t care about
• Tooth brushes
• Dental tools/picks/sewing needles
• A x-acto knife you don’t care about
• Stripping agent (I’ll list them in a sec)
• Latex gloves
• A towel
Stripping Agents:
When it comes to these, there are two things that work on both plastics and metals, without damaging them. Simple Green, the concentrated stuff, is what most people recommend. But, I’ve found something cheaper: L.A.’s Totally Awesome. You can find it at the Dollar Tree for a buck a bottle. I advise you to pick up two or three, as the bottles are rather small. Regardless of what you choose, both work just as well in my experience. Whatever you use, it’s all ‘gunk’ to me. (Note: some people say you can use acetone, but I haven’t tried it. Be warned, if can melt plastics if exposed too long. Personally, I use L.A.’s and be done with it.)
To start off, take the models you want, put them in your tub, and leave them there for about 24 hours. If they sit there a week, that’ll be fine too. Once they’ve soaked, you should notice the paint is loose. On metals, the paint with start coming off before you even touch the model, but if left too long (like a month) they may start tarnishing. Not a big deal, as your primer will cover it.
Now, put on your gloves. I strongly suggest you have a few pairs, because the Simple Green/L.A.’s is an irritant on your skin. And, you’re going to poke holes in your gloves. Once you’ve got the gloves on, just reach in and take out a model. Go ahead, pick one. Make sure you’ve got a towel laid down in the area you’re going to be working in. Keep in mind, this stuff is going to spatter everywhere, so do this somewhere away from electronics and etc.
Start with brushing the model with your tooth brush. Keep in mind the liquid is going to make a film of bubbles. That’s fine, just dunk the model in the ‘gunk.’ This should remove the bubbles. Hopefully, you’ve taken a few layers of paint off, if it doesn’t, do it a few more times. Once you’ve taken off the layers, start going at the crevices with your dental tools. You should be able to just scrape the paint off. If you leave any paint in the details, it’ll obscure them when you repaint the model. Get out as much as you can, without damaging the model.
If the paint is stuck on flat areas, take the hobby/X-acto knife and carefully scrape with the blade. Good news is, if you missed the mould lines before, you’ll get them now.
After a while, the ‘gunk’ is going to dry up. Just give the models a quick dip, to keep the paint loose. Also, keep repeating the steps above as needed. Metal models just need a scrub and pick at the places the brush can’t touch. Plastics, on the other hand, can be hours of work. For whatever reason, the ‘gunk’ doesn’t work that well on plastics. I’m not a chemist or anything, so I can’t tell you why. Also, gloss enamels are going to be much harder to remove, and may need a few sessions of soaking and cleaning.
You will be able to remove most paint off of the models. Only metals, and then only with a lot of work, can you remove 100% of the paint. But, if you can take off a lot of it, it won’t show up when you re-primer and paint it.
After one batch, the gunk is going to get murky. That’s cool, it works just fine cloudy. I think you’ll want to change the liquid every 100 models or so, but I leave that up to you. When it’s time to dump it out, just send it down the drain. I’d recommend you get a cheap metal strainer, and drain through that. A lot of little doo-dads pop off when you’re cleaning, and they might end up in the container.
All told, this can cost you as little as $10. If you’re using Simple green, buying a new container, and getting dental tools, it will go higher. However, you don’t really need to buy any more stuff after the initial purchase.
Stripping paint is easier than you think. It’s helpful to know, when you buy used models. Here’s a list of what you’ll need:
• A container you don’t care about
• Tooth brushes
• Dental tools/picks/sewing needles
• A x-acto knife you don’t care about
• Stripping agent (I’ll list them in a sec)
• Latex gloves
• A towel
Stripping Agents:
When it comes to these, there are two things that work on both plastics and metals, without damaging them. Simple Green, the concentrated stuff, is what most people recommend. But, I’ve found something cheaper: L.A.’s Totally Awesome. You can find it at the Dollar Tree for a buck a bottle. I advise you to pick up two or three, as the bottles are rather small. Regardless of what you choose, both work just as well in my experience. Whatever you use, it’s all ‘gunk’ to me. (Note: some people say you can use acetone, but I haven’t tried it. Be warned, if can melt plastics if exposed too long. Personally, I use L.A.’s and be done with it.)
To start off, take the models you want, put them in your tub, and leave them there for about 24 hours. If they sit there a week, that’ll be fine too. Once they’ve soaked, you should notice the paint is loose. On metals, the paint with start coming off before you even touch the model, but if left too long (like a month) they may start tarnishing. Not a big deal, as your primer will cover it.
Now, put on your gloves. I strongly suggest you have a few pairs, because the Simple Green/L.A.’s is an irritant on your skin. And, you’re going to poke holes in your gloves. Once you’ve got the gloves on, just reach in and take out a model. Go ahead, pick one. Make sure you’ve got a towel laid down in the area you’re going to be working in. Keep in mind, this stuff is going to spatter everywhere, so do this somewhere away from electronics and etc.
Start with brushing the model with your tooth brush. Keep in mind the liquid is going to make a film of bubbles. That’s fine, just dunk the model in the ‘gunk.’ This should remove the bubbles. Hopefully, you’ve taken a few layers of paint off, if it doesn’t, do it a few more times. Once you’ve taken off the layers, start going at the crevices with your dental tools. You should be able to just scrape the paint off. If you leave any paint in the details, it’ll obscure them when you repaint the model. Get out as much as you can, without damaging the model.
If the paint is stuck on flat areas, take the hobby/X-acto knife and carefully scrape with the blade. Good news is, if you missed the mould lines before, you’ll get them now.
After a while, the ‘gunk’ is going to dry up. Just give the models a quick dip, to keep the paint loose. Also, keep repeating the steps above as needed. Metal models just need a scrub and pick at the places the brush can’t touch. Plastics, on the other hand, can be hours of work. For whatever reason, the ‘gunk’ doesn’t work that well on plastics. I’m not a chemist or anything, so I can’t tell you why. Also, gloss enamels are going to be much harder to remove, and may need a few sessions of soaking and cleaning.
You will be able to remove most paint off of the models. Only metals, and then only with a lot of work, can you remove 100% of the paint. But, if you can take off a lot of it, it won’t show up when you re-primer and paint it.
After one batch, the gunk is going to get murky. That’s cool, it works just fine cloudy. I think you’ll want to change the liquid every 100 models or so, but I leave that up to you. When it’s time to dump it out, just send it down the drain. I’d recommend you get a cheap metal strainer, and drain through that. A lot of little doo-dads pop off when you’re cleaning, and they might end up in the container.
All told, this can cost you as little as $10. If you’re using Simple green, buying a new container, and getting dental tools, it will go higher. However, you don’t really need to buy any more stuff after the initial purchase.
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